Chinatown's Hidden Gem: A Strong Brew of Tradition and Resilience

In the heart of Chinatown, a small café named Hien: From Vietnam is making waves with its bold Vietnamese coffee. The name Hien means gentleness and integrity, values that owner Christmas Le brings to every cup. Le, who moved from Saigon to the U. S. in her late 20s, noticed a gap in the market. Most Vietnamese coffee in the U. S. is watered down or too milky, lacking the strong, rich flavor she grew up with. Le stumbled upon the café space this summer, bringing her hospitality experience to the table. She quickly realized that her coffee was much stronger than what most New Yorkers were used to. One cup of her Vietnamese coffee is like having two or three shots of espresso. This intensity is what sets her coffee apart, but it also took some getting used to for her customers. The café's unique offering is its slushy coffee, a nod to traditional Vietnamese coffee shops. In Vietnam, large ice cubes were delivered to cafés and smashed by hand. Le initially wanted to do this but found it time-consuming. Instead, she invested in a crushed ice machine, which has become a hit with customers.However, Le's biggest challenge came this year when the U. S. imposed a 46% tariff on Vietnamese coffee beans. This tariff significantly increased her costs, but Le refused to compromise on quality. She continued importing beans from Vietnam, even if it meant making less profit. The tariff was lifted in November 2025, but the impact on her business was already felt. Le imports coffee beans every two weeks, costing her $19-$20 per pound. She struggles to balance these costs without raising prices. Initially, she tried adding salads and other dishes to the menu, but managing both the kitchen and customer orders became overwhelming. She hasn't hired any staff yet, so she handles everything herself. Despite these challenges, Le's coffee has gained a strong following. Word of mouth has spread, and customers keep coming back for the authentic Vietnamese coffee. Le believes her coffee stands out because she doesn't mix the beans but keeps the original, authentic flavors. This commitment to quality is what she hopes will help her expand her clientele and eventually open a dining area. Le acknowledges that even established businesses face daily struggles. The cost of one cup of coffee covers more than just the ingredients; it pays for rent, electricity, and labor. She hopes to remain resilient and continue serving her community with the best coffee she can offer.