The Oxygen Story: Annie Smith Peck's 1903 Bolivian Adventure

In 1903, American mountaineer Annie Smith Peck led an expedition to Bolivia's Mount Sorata (Illampu), aiming for the peak's 6, 367 meters (20, 892 feet). This journey is notable for being one of the first to employ supplemental oxygen on a great mountain. Instead of using heavy oxygen cylinders or rebreathers, the team carried a chemical method to produce oxygen on-site. The plan was to manufacture oxygen in their camp, store it in rubber bags, and use it while climbing with an open-circuit breathing set. However, their plans changed once they arrived in Bolivia. They decided to attempt the summit of the neighboring peak, Mount Ancohuma, which stands at 6, 427 meters (21, 086 feet). Unfortunately, their climb was cut short at 4, 700 meters (15, 350 feet), and the oxygen system was never used. This expedition offers a glimpse into the early history of mountaineering and the innovative strategies climbers employed to reach new heights. In 1903, options for supplemental oxygen were limited, and the team's use of a heated chlorate chemical method was quite pioneering.