The Struggle to Tackle Chinese Crime in Italy's Fashion World

In Italy, a big case against Chinese crime groups is facing serious problems. The trial, which started after two Chinese men were killed in 2010, aims to break up a network controlling Europe's fashion industry. But it's not going well. Documents have gone missing, and interpreters have quit, making some prosecutors think someone is trying to sabotage the trial. The case is about more than just fashion. It's about how hard it is for Italy to fight international crime without the tools it uses against home-grown mafia groups. Prosecutors have talked to textile workers, union reps, and defense lawyers to understand the challenges. They suspect interference from the Chinese community and authorities, but no one from China has commented. The violence hasn't stopped. Since April 2024, there have been at least 16 attacks, including bombings and arson. The gangs are fighting for control of coat hanger production and fast-fashion freight. Meanwhile, the alleged mastermind, Zhang Naizhong, fled to China in 2018 and is unlikely to return. Prato, a city near Florence, is a big textile hub with over 7, 000 companies. Many are Chinese-owned, and the city has a high foreign population. The Chinese businesses operate in a system marked by corruption, labor abuses, and tax fraud. Workers often face backlash if they seek legal contracts. Prosecutors are trying to label the Chinese gangs as mafia groups, which would give them more power to seize assets and hand out stiffer sentences. But it's not easy, especially with organizations rooted abroad. Without the mafia designation or Chinese cooperation, the case relies on fragile evidence and the willingness of translators to show up. The next hearing is scheduled for May 15.