A Fresh Take on Food Criticism in Washington

In a surprising move, the new food critic for a major Washington publication has shaken up the scene. Instead of heading to a fancy restaurant, he took a team to a church cafeteria. This choice shows his plan to change how food criticism works in the city. The new critic, Elazar Sontag, started his role in November. He took over from someone who had been in the position for 25 years. Sontag has big ideas about how to make food criticism more open and useful for everyone. One of his first changes is to stop being anonymous. He also brought back a star rating system. He says these changes are not just about being different for the sake of it. They are about making food criticism something anyone can relate to.Sontag wants to share his thoughts on different platforms. He believes it is hard to do this if people do not know who he is. This was clear during a recent visit to a busy cafeteria. The place is known for its soul food and has a rich history. The cafeteria is more than just a place to eat. It is a community space with deep roots. Sontag says the layers of history and culture make it special. He compares it to some of the top restaurants in the city. This new approach is not just about reviewing food. It is about sharing stories and connecting with people. Sontag's goal is to make food criticism feel more real and accessible. He wants to show that great food can be found in many places, not just high-end restaurants.